In
many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy
a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our
judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to
read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand
scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful
than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic
truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the
new. The world is often unkind to new talents, new creations. The new
needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new; an
extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that
both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about
fine cooking, is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my
core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef
Gusteau's famous motto, "Anyone can cook". But I realize - only now do
I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great
artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to
imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at
Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the
finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry
for more.
